Discount car insurance

Questions and Answers

No claims discount on car insurance?

Q) I've been driving in the UK for 13 years and never had a crash or made a claim on my car insurance. However, my wife has had three accidents, all of which have resulted in claims against our joint policy. I have now separated from her (not as a result of the accidents!) and want to buy a car of my own. When I look for car insurance quotes, can I state that I've had 13 years of no claims or do I have to take into account her 3 claims because they were made against a joint policy?

A) If the insurance was in your name with your wife as a named driver then it is your insurance that has been claimed against and will need to be declared. If the policy was in your wife's name with you as named driver then your future insurance policies are not effected. However if the latter is the case then you do not have a no claims discount as you were not the the holder of the insurance. Some companies will honour the fact that you have never claimed as a named driver on someone else's policy and give you a small introductory discount on this basis.

Car Insurance - full no claims discount has expired, are there any deals where I can a reasonable quote?

Q) I had a full no claims (5+ years) before selling my car 3 years ago. I've since not driven so I am under the impression, I go back to 0 years no claims. I've been driving on my girlfriends insurance for one year - but even having 1 years no claims discount with her amounts to nothing. Will any insurers be able to offer a decent price based on my clean record 3 years ago?

A) Depending on which company you had the 5+ years discount, you can probably go back and provide your old policy number and they will continue those credits. I work for State Farm and we'll go back in time to use an old policy's credits provided you've had a clean record since you left.

How do i get my proof of no claims discount for my car insurance.?

Q) Aoved insurer and new insurance company wants (original) proof of no claims discount which im sure AFAIK is at 9 years!

A) Phone your previous insurer - they will send a letter (to you) confirming how many years no claims you have, you then have to send it to your new insurer. It's not done automatically.

How do no claims discounts on car insurance work?

Q) In 2005 I had 5yr no claims, later that year I moved abroad and have travelled around Europe for past 15 months, I just bought a newish car and have been shopping around for best Insurance deals, my problem is, do I still have my 5 yr no claims even though I havent had a car or insurance for almost 2 yrs? Or do you have to start back with 0 no claims? Help! please

A) The insurance companies will run a check and f/u with your prior carriers about if you were in prior at fault accidents - so YES - you will keep your no claim discount. It's not really a no CLAIM discount though - you can have claims and as long as they are not your fault, the insurance company cannot fault you for that. The only way your "good driver discount" can be lost is if you have an AT FAULT (more than 51%) accident, or you have driving violations - such as speeding tickets, reckless driving, etc... If again, you were in an accident say it was 50/50, or you were 0% at fault, or even comprehensive losses - those cannot affect your "good driver discount."

How can i prove how many no claims discount years i have for my car insurance?

Q) Is there like a place where this info can be found

A) yeah on your last set of documents or you can ask your last insurer for a copy but they may charge you.

Car Insurance?

Q) anybody know what the Uk cheapest car insurance for somebody with 15 years no claims discount car engine size 2.8cc? fully comp as i have no convictions/points or penalties

A) You need to shop around really. I used to work for Toyota Insurance and learnt a fair old bit. The cheapest quote isn't always the best quote. Look out for simple things like being offered a courtesy car whilst yours is in the garage, insurance incase you take your car abroad. Also is it fully comp or is it TPFT or just TP? Personally i'd go with either MoreThan, Churchill or Hastings Direct, they're the big players in car insurance. Seen as though you have 15 years NCB, you'll probably get a good deal, as long as you don't have too many speeding points or major convictions like DD10 or something. Also try cut out the 'middle man' or the brokers, just go direct to the insurers themselves. Good luck x

CAR INSURANCE? I have been driving on parents insurance for 6 years I have no, no claims discount.?

Q) Anyone know the best company to try. Taking into account my 6 no claim years but on parents insurance?

A) try Adrian Flux they're usually quite cheap to insure younger drivers or drivers with no NCD alternatively go on to http://www.insuresupermarket.com and try those

If I put in a self fit car alarm am I likely to get any insurance discount?

Q) Basically the car we bought has had the alarm removed and I like to put a new one in. It would cheer me up to hear that a self fit one would lower my insurance. Any ideas on good models would would be good too. ironharryflint. If you have nothing to say why say it. I ask because not all insurance companies are the same and I wondered about peoples personal experience.

A) no not likely to get discount from insurers if you fit it yourself it has to be fitted by a thatcham approved fitter.might aswell get one fitted by one.usually it only costs a few quid more.cos youre paying for it to be fitted when you buy the alarm.best way to drop premium though is to keep it in a garage.toad ,cobra,all do good alarms.the in argos are not much cop.all the cars ive had in last 10 yrs have been ins group 20.having a tracker will give you a better discount.

why can't I get any no claims discount because I have been a company car driver with no accidents for 10 years

Q) Despite being on my wifes car insurance for 10 years as a named driver and having a company car for that period I have yet to find an insurer who will give me any No claims discount because I have not had my own insurance with me being the main driver for 10 years.

A) i believe that direct line insurance will take it this in to account give them a call

Car insurance for a japanese import?

Q) I am looking for car insurance for a japanese import car and I am trying to find companies which will deal with imports and are cheap. I am only 18 so I know that the insurance will be pretty expensive but if anyone has had any experience with imports at this age and can tell me some companies to try that would be great. The car I am looking at is a Mazda mx-3 1.5i . If anyone knows how to get cheap insurance for this I would like to hear from you. It would be cheaper if I was a named driver and could earn no claims discount but I don't know if any of the companies who do that accept imports. Any help or advice anyone could give me would be very much appreciated. Thanks I forgot to put that I live in the UK sorry Thanks for all the replies. I have not been able to get a good quote anywhere. It seems that my age (18) is a bit too young to have an import. I might have to go with the uk version of the car. TRICKY I doubt anyone would insure me on a skyline at 18 would they? . How old are you and how much are you paying. also who are you insured with and what spec is your skyline.

A) The first question is where are you, and are Japanese imports allowed where you are. Once you get past that you can worry about the other factors. Certain cars are not allow in the United States at all, of the ones that are, some are not allowed in California, for example.

good student car insurance discount?

Q) on the transcript do they look at overall grade or just se

A) They usually look at the overall grade, and requirew you to be a full time student with a B average or above. One thing I have realized is that do not limited yourself to companies that only offer student discounts. I have found that sometimes companies that offer no such discount still give a lower rate then companies who offer a discount! The best thing to do is get an online insurance quote at http://www.auto-insurance-knowledge.com/24-hour-insurance-quote-auto.html This will compare all companies, and has a place for you to enter that you are a student (so it takes into account this discount if it applies and the company offers it.) It then returns the companies that offer the lowest prices in your area. If you decide to go with a company, be sure to mention again that you are a student to ensure they have included the discount if it applies.

I ride the bus to work so I don't drive my car often. Will any insurers discount my car insurance for this?

A) Well it is not really a discount but if you tell them you use your car for pleasure and ride the bus to work you will get much lower rates because the "exposure" is much less and chances of an accident are minimized since you do not drive much. So unless you drive ALOT on the evenings and weekends then you prob drive less than 7500 miles per year which is generally the cut off point for the lower rates for insurance.... and you will get the lower premiums....but for those of you who read this and think you will lie to get lower rates if you lie and just tell them you don't drive much...your insurance company will find out eventually so it is not worth lying...

how could i make a fake " non claim discount" for my car insurance company ?

Q) because i told them i have a non claim discount so i could make my insurance cheaper but now they are asking me for the documents! my friends told me that i could make a fake non claim discount but from other countries and that could work ! but i need help

A) You need to go to jail for insurance fraud is what you need to do. Do the right thing and turn yourself in.

Car Insurance Claim. How will it effect my No Claims discount.?

Q) While I was busy working today some selfish ignoramous crashed into my car and drove off. Damage has been caused to the rear quarter panel which will need replacing, the petrol cap, the rear light cluster, and the bumper. I have 71% no claims discount and currently pay around £220 per annum fully comp. I have read my insurance cover and it informs me that after 1 claim my bonus will reduce to 65%. I do not have protected no claims. I am 35 Yrs old and have not claimed on my insurance for 13 years. Can anyone tell me A) Is it worth claiming on my car Insurance. B) Estimated cost of repairs. (Car is a Fiat Brava, 1.6 100 SX (S) registration and worth about £1000. ) C) How much this will effect the cost of my future insurance premium (in monetary terms) Answers to any of these questions will be very much appreciated. xxx

A)

i need a form for allstate car insurance good student discount?

A) Go to http://agent.allstate.com/ Type in your zip or city Call the agent and ask for help. Do this between 8:45--9:00am when they are least busy. You may need a policy number to expedite yuur savings if you are not just shopping for an insurance company that offers this discount. If you are planning to buy a policy, first look for the least costly insurer. That can easily save $100--1000 depending on your profile. Type Auto Insurance Quotes in the Yahoo search area, when they come up, try esurance.com and others to see what they will charge you.

Can you get an insurance discount if you take the in-car drivers lesson?

Q) i'm 19 just now getting my license (long long story, involves Hurricane Katrina and a Very over protective mother ) and i'm going take the 6 hour pre license class saturday, and i was thinking about taking the in car lessons also but i can get my mom to teach me for free, but if i can get another insurance discount by taking the professional class i will, can i get a discount for that? if so what companies? thank in advance to anyone who answers. i live in Louisiana

A) Congrats on getting your license, but unless you own your own car, you should check with the company that your mother/parents carry their insurance with. Some companies offer discounts for driver education classes, driver safety course or possibly for maintaining good grades. You may also want to consider asking an older friend or another relative to take you practicing, you may feel more at ease than with a parent. I know I did and so did my parents.

Looking for website that would show law about using a VIN# for a junkyard car to get insurance discount?

Q) Someone mentioned a program called Polk that checks the VIN#'s on all kinds of vehicles. I'm trying to find out if someone were to go to a junkyard and get a VIN# on a car, would they get caught? Would it be traced back that the car is in the junkyard? Anyone know about the state of Connecticut? It would be a multi-car discount without actually having to buy another car.

A) State of Connecticut Department of Motor Vehicles Bureau of Licensing and Registry-Bureau of Safety and Enforcement On The Web At http://dmvct.org Insurance companies have the authority to declare a vehicle a "total loss", but they are subject to regulation by the State of Connecticut Insurance Department. If your insurance company has determined that your vehicle is a "total loss' or the word "Salvage" has been stamped on the title, it is illegal to operate this vehicle upon any road in Connecticut. Technically, the registration on this vehicle has been cancelled. You should have removed the plates from your vehicle. The DMV is aware of the status of the vehicle, since your insurance company has sent us a copy of the title stamped "Salvage". The registration and plates on the salvaged vehicle can be transferred to another vehicle. If you rebuild the salvaged vehicle (parts only; salvages cannot be rebuilt), you must re-title the vehicle. The vehicle cannot, however, be re-titled until it passes a Salvage Inspection. Salvaged vehicles will be inspected in the following four offices only: Enfield, Hamden, New Britain and Wethersfield, Tuesday through Saturday, by appointment only. Please call our Salvage Telephone Line at 860-263-5491 Monday through Friday to schedule an appointment. The DMV will assign a date, time and location for the inspection. If for any reason the appointment cannot be kept, please contact DMV at the above number to cancel and/or re-schedule the appointment. The DMV will charge an inspection fee of $88 for a regular salvage inspection. If the vehicle has never been registered in Connecticut, or if the vehicle is 10 years old or older, there is a $10 administrative fee which is paid at the time of registration. The owner (or person representing the owner) must purchase and complete the DMV inspection Report (Form B-269) and have the report form validated with the payment of $88 prior to presenting the vehicle for inspection. Please be sure to allow enough time to purchase the form prior to your inspection appointment time. NOTE: A New York State salvage certificate (form MV907A) is not acceptable by the Connecticut DMV. Salvage Inspection Locations: Salvaged (Totaled) Vehicles SALVAGE INSPECTION INFORMATION SHEETS B-256 REV. 10-2004 A private individual cannot drive or tow the salvaged vehicle to the DMV office. He can only bring it in on a flat-bed trailer or car carrier (i.e., no wheel of the vehicle may touch the ground). The vehicle can be driven/towed by a bona fide Dealer/Repairer employee with Dealer/Repair Plates only when the dealer is the owner of the vehicle. However, if it fails inspection, it must be towed away on a flatbed trailer. The owner of a vehicle that has been declared "Salvage" cannot transfer ownership on an Application for Duplicate Title (form H-6B). The owner must first obtain a duplicate title from the Title Division which will bear the legend "Salvage." The owner may then assign the reverse side of the duplicate title to the purchaser. If the title is branded "Salvage Parts Only" or "Salvage Unrebuildable" or "Salvage Unrepairable" the vehicle cannot be registered or re-titled under any circumstances. Once the vehicle passes the salvage inspection, you can re-register the vehicle with the old plates or obtain new plates. You will be issued a new title (without the "Salvage" stamp on it) with the words "Rebuilt" printed on it. Once the salvage inspection is performed, the inspection slip does not expire. Required Documents for a Salvage Inspection to be Presented to the Inspector at Time of Inspection: 1. SALVAGED VEHICLE REPAIR REPORT (form K-186) - Salvaged vehicles purchased from a dealer or repairer, or salvaged vehicles repaired following a settlement from an insurance company, must have a Salvaged Vehicle Repair Report (form K-186) completed and presented at the time of vehicle inspection. When a vehicle that has had any major component part replaced in accord with industry standards is presented for inspection, the following procedures is to be followed. Departmental requirements for invoices/titles/receipts of parts/panels shall apply. The certification for repair of salvage vehicles will then be signed and submitted with the completed Salvage Vehicle Repair Report (form K-186). 2. PHOTOGRAPHS - Clear photographs of the repaired/replacement areas of the vehicles are to be presented when inspected. The photographs must clearly show: 1. The entire vehicle by four photos, one for each vehicle corner i.e. left front, right front, left rear, right rear. 2. The damaged area(s) prior to repairs. 3. The repaired areas with the new parts/panels installed prior to any seam sealing, painting, or rust proofing. 4. How the new parts were attached (welding). 5. The area prior to painting and corrosion proofing (if the area is no longer visible). These photographs must be attached to a DMV Salvage Vehicle Repair Report (form K-186). This form must be completed and signed by licensee. 2 3. AIR BAG CERTIFICATION STATEMENT (form B-303) - If the vehicle is equipped with an air bag, a separate Air Bag Certification Statement (form B-303) will be required in all cases, completed by a franchise dealer/repairer or a certified air bag technician with proof of certification. This is required for all salvage inspections regardless if the airbag was deployed or not. 4. INSURANCE ADJUSTER'S REPORT - A copy of the Insurance Adjuster's Report must be presented at the time of inspection. 5. RECEIPTS FOR MAJOR COMPONENT PARTS - Receipts are required for any major component parts that are replaced. Major component parts as defined in Connecticut State Law Title 14 Sec. 14-149(a)(2) means one of the following parts of a motor vehicle: (A) The engine, (B) the transmission, (C) the right or left front fender, (D) the hood, (E) a door allowing entrance to or egress from the passenger compartment of the vehicle, (F) the front or rear bumper, (G) the right or left rear quarter panel, (H) the deck lid, tailgate or hatchback, (I) the trunk floor pan, (J) the cargo box of a pickup, (K) the frame, or if the vehicle has a unitized body, the supporting structure or structures which serve as the frame, (L) the cab of a truck, (M) the body of a passenger vehicle, or (N) any other part of a motor vehicle which the Commissioner of Motor Vehicles determines is comparable in design or function to any of the parts listed in subparagraphs (A) to (M), inclusive, of this subdivision. The receipts (or legible photo copies of the receipts) shall clearly indicate the name and address of the source of the component parts and the vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle from which the respective component parts were removed. NOTE: In a situation where a licensee's vehicle has a questionable repair, the undercoating, sealer or parts may have to be removed at the request of the inspector. 3 SALVAGE VEHICLE REPAIR REPORT K-186 REV. 8-99 STATE OF CONNECTICUT DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES On The Web at http://dmvct.org ATTACH PHOTOGRAPH (Please place vehicle VIN on back of photograph and initial it.) ATTACH PHOTOGRAPH (Please place vehicle VIN on back of photograph and initial it.) SIGNATURE OF DEALER X DATE SIGNED PRINTED NAME OF DEALER DEALER'S LICENSE NUMBER I hereby certify, under penalty of false statement, that the information furnished above is true and complete to the best of my knowledge and belief. R E P A I R R E G U L A T I O N S A N D D E A L E R C E R T I F I C A T I O N D E S C R I P T I O N O F V E H I C L E This vehicle has been repaired with the equipment required under Section 14-63-4b of the Regulations of State Agencies using the standards established by the Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair, Tech-Cor Inc., or other similar organizations including vehicle manufacturers. This is defined as: YEAR MAKE MODEL VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN) DESCRIBE ANY REPAIR OR REPLACED PARTS BELOW Please complete both sides of this form. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Apparatus permitting four (4) point clamping to secure the vehicle while making structural repairs; Electrical or hydraulic pulling equipment appropriate to the type of repair; Equipment for making three dimensional measurements for both symmetrical and asymmetrical vehicles; Reference guides providing dimensions appropriate to the vehicle being repaired; Welding equipment meeting vehicle manufacturer's requirements for the specific structural repair; Painting equipment capable of refinishing vehicles to the manufacturer's original specifications; and Equipment for applying corrosion protection to the vehicle meeting the manufacturer's specifications. 4 PARTS DESCRIPTION VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN) NUMBER FOR PART(S) USED FRAME OR UNITIZED ASSEMBLY CAB OF A TRUCK CARGO BOX OF A PICKUP BODY OF A PASSENGER VEHICLE TRUNK OR FLOOR PAN REAR QUARTER PANEL (RIGHT) REAR QUARTER PANEL (LEFT) DECKLID, TAILGATE, OR HATCHBACK HOOD FRONT DOOR (RIGHT) FRONT DOOR (LEFT) REAR DOOR (RIGHT) REAR DOOR (LEFT) FRONT FENDER (RIGHT) FRONT FENDER (LEFT) BUMPER (FRONT) BUMPER (REAR) AIR BAG (RIGHT) AIR BAG (LEFT) ENGINE TRANSMISSION SLIDING OR CARGO DOOR K-186 REV. 8-99 (back) 5 AIR BAG CERTIFICATION STATEMENT B-303 REV. 3-2003 STATE OF CONNECTICUT DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES BRANCH OPERATIONS DIVISION On The Web At http://dmvct.org NOTE: If other than franchised dealer for type of vehicle listed above, a photocopy of the technician's certification of training on airbag or passive restraint systems ( I-CAR, ASE or TECH-COR) must accompany this statement. By signing below you attest that the airbag system, including associated sensors and controls, in the vehicle listed above was inspected in accordance with established factory procedures for vehicles that have been in a collision, and you found the airbag system in proper operating condition. OWNER OF VEHICLE PRINTED NAME OF TECHNICIAN SIGNATURE OF TECHNICIAN DATE SIGNED X VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER DATE OF AIR BAG SYSTEM INSPECTION MAKE MODEL YEAR LICENSE NUMBER RESIDENT ADDRESS OF OWNER (Number and Street) (City or Town) (State) (Zip Code) DEALER OR REPAIRER ADDRESS OF REPAIR FACILITY (Number and Street) (City or Town) (State) (Zip Code) AN ACT CONCERNING AIR BAG FRAUD Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Assembly convened: Section 53a-119(16) the general statutes is amended by adding subdivision (16) as follows: (16) A person from such other person or a third person by knowingly installing or reinstalling any object in lieu of an air bag that was designed in accordance with federal safety requirements as provided in 49 CFR 571.208, as amended, and which is proper for the make, model and year of the vehicle, as part of the vehicle inflatable restraint system. SUMMARY: This bill established a specific larceny category called "air bag fraud." People commit this offense when, with intent to defraud, they obtain money or other property from someone for knowingly installing or reinstalling any object instead of an airbag designed according to federal safety regulations, and which is proper for the make, model, and year of the vehicle, as part of the vehicle inflatable restraint system. The penalty for this offense varies from a class C misdemeanor to a class B felony depending on the amount charged for the airbag. For example, if the amount charged was over $1,000 but less than $5,000 the penalty would be a class D felony punishable by a prison term of up to five years, a fine of up to $5,000, or both. EFFECTIVE DATE: October 1, 2001 6 State of Connecticut Department of Motor Vehicles Inspection Requirements For Repairable Salvage Vehicles ('Parts Only' vehicles will not be inspected) NOTE: Lighting devices, exhaust and brakes will be inspected in accordance with current Department of Motor Vehicles procedures Item and method of inspection: Vehicle will be rejected if: 1) HOOD Manually inspect hood operation and visually inspect: Latches Broken, missing, seized or insecurely mounted, inoperable, will not close or open easily Secondary Latches Broken, missing, or inoperable Hinges Missing, broken, cracked, seized, inoperable Safety Retainer Pins Missing Hood Reinforcement Hood reinforced by other than manufacturer Hood Support Rod Broken missing or inoperable 2) Bumpers - Front and Rear Visually inspect: Condition Missing, loose. Broken, torn portion is protruding so as to create a hazard Energy Absorber (if equipped) Collapsed, welded to rail not collapsible Height Cars - some part of bumper face not between 14 and 22 inches (36 cm and 56 cm) off the ground Trucks less than 10,000 lbs GVWR - lowest part of the bumper highter than 30 inches (76 cm) from the ground Dimensions Less than track width, horizontal surface less than 4 inches (10 cm) 7 Item and Method of Inspection: Vehicle will be rejected if: 3) Windshield Con't... Tinting (other than by glass manufacturer) Tint or sun screening not applied by the glass manufacturer is more than three inches from the top of the windshield or as allowed by CGS 14-99g Obstructions Decals located in an area swept by wipers Type Glass is other than laminated safety glass type AS-1 and so marked Adhesive sealant Not urethane type or not to manufacturer's specifications VIN number visibility Public Vehicle Identification Number not readable through glare strip of windshield 4) Side and Rear Windows Operation Cannot be opened or closed readily - do not bind in motion Type Other than safety glass type with appropriate AS rating and so marked Condition Broken, exposed sharp edges, badly cracked Any crack or stone bruise Visibility Front side windows tinting or sun screening that has a light transmission of less than 35% plus or minus 3% 5) Seats Visually Inspect: Condition Mounting to vehicle or positioning mechanisms not secure, frame broken, covering material torn and exposing any metal component Tear greater than 3 inches long, or damage extending beyond 3 square inches and greater than 1/4 inch deep Driver's seat lock Adjusting mechanism does not operate or will not lock into position Seat back locks Mechanism does not operate so folding seat back will lock upright 6) Seat Belts Condition Missing, excessively frayed, torn webbing Anchors Missing, insecurely mounted Retractors (if equipped) Fail to allow belt to extend to its maximum length, does not release properly 8 Position Removed, not available for each passenger position as per factory installation Air flow (defroster) Condition Evidence of leaks which fog windshield or no warm air is produced 7) Interior Heaters: Turn on fan and feel for warm air coming out of heater duct. Visually and manually inspect for: Fan Fails to operate, controls stuck or inoperable Type Other than hot water (except if supplied by manufacturer of older cars) Conditions Any leaks are present, no warm air produced Controls Fails to direct air flow as per control indicator position 8) Trunk Door Will not open, lose or latch Area Holes or seals could allow exhaust gases to enter Seals Weather-strip or weather-seal missing or ineffective 9) Alignment and Tracking Front or rear alignment Camber is obviously excessive, toe exceeds 30 ft/mile front, 40 ft/mile rear Tracking Right to left side wheelbase measured at ball joints exceeds 6 mm (1/4") (unless otherwise specified) 10) Frame and/or Structural Body Components Inspect for corrosive deterioration of structural components Frame rails or cross members are perforated or separated due to corrosion anywhere between the front and rear suspension mountings on vehicles with frames and sub-frames and when unibody sheet metal is separated Perforated or flaking in area near suspension component mounting or where structural shapes have been stamped into floor plan Tapping with hammer causes indentations, extensive corrosive weakening of metal in structural shapes Seat Belts - Con't... 9 Engine and transmission Mounts broken or not attached Throttle control linkage Not connected or supported properly, linkage binding Item and method of inspection: Vehicle will be rejected if: 11) Frame and/or Structural body Components cont... Transmission linkage Not connected or supported properly, linkage binding Rear quarter panels Damaged in a manner that factor installed lamps cannot be secured as per factor installation, missing Section torn away so road spray is not controlled Mud flap or fenders not full width of tire, or the vertical measure from the ground to the bottom of the wheel house, fender, guard or other splash and throw limiting parts of the vehicle, shall not exceed one third of the horizontal distance from the bottom edge of the axle. Floor Rusted through sufficiently to cause a hazard or allow exhaust gases to enter the vehicle Body panels Perforated or dented in excess of 50 mm (2 inches) from original body design Note: not acceptable on structural component Inner fender panels Missing, incomplete 12) Frame Rails and Mounts With the vehicle raised, visually inspect and tap with ball peen hammer: Frame rails Cracked, broken, bent, perforated or separated due to corrosion or impact between front and rear suspension mounts and rear frame to body mounts Body mounts Split, broken, missing, missing bolts Cross members Cracked, broken, bent, rusted to a depth as to weaken member, or loose Welded and heated areas Not coated Frame and/or Structural Body Components - Con't... 10 Out of Service Criteria Any frame member is broken, sagging or cracked in such a manner as to permit the body to contact any moving part or collapse of the frame is imminent Any frame member or component fails to adequately support directional stability components Wheelbase varies by 1 inch (25 mm) or more measured at the ball joints 13) Unibody Visually inspect condition of: Floor pan (tap with ball peen hammer for rust) Rusted through sufficiently to cause a hazard or allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment, or badly deformed Strut towers and spring shackle supports (tap with ball peen hammer) Cracked, broken, rusted through to a depth so as to weaken supports, deformed or bent Item and method of inspection: Vehicle will be rejected if: 14) Example and Characteristics of Various High Strength Steels: A) UHSS - Ultra High Strength Steel • Strength destroyed by any heating during repair • Metal is so hard that it cannot be straightened due to extreme high strength • Any member having this metal must not be repaired, it must be replaced • Used in door guard beams, bumper face bars and reinforcements B) HSS - High Strength Steel • Heat sensitive (1200 degrees) maximum depending on the manufacturer's recommendation • Can be straightened cold • Heat useful in relieving stress at straightened area if temp indicating methods applied • Used in frames of full frame vehicles and sub-frames in unibody if thicker metal is observed C) HSLA - High Strength Low Alloy Steel • Cannot apply heat • Can be straightened cold • Higher strength than mild steel • Used in front and rear rails, rocker panels, door pillars, and bumper face bars Frame Rails and Mounts- Con't... With the vehicle raised, visually inspect and tap with ball peen hammer: 11 D) Galvanized Steel • HSS or HSLA can be galvanized (Zinc coated) • Toxic fumes released when heated (caution have proper ventilation and protection) • Coating must be stripped to weld • Corrosion protection must be replaced after repair E) Structural Panels • Structural panels should be serviced or replaced at the locations where they are normally attached to the other panels during the production process (factory joints and seams) Manufacturers do not recommend the sectioning of structural panels. While outer panels like hoods, fenders, quarter panels, and doors give some support to the total structure, they are not considered key structural panels of the unibody assembly. The individual panels are joined together at flanges of mating surfaces usually formed at the edges of the panels during factory production. The same number of welds as in manufacturing and in the right locations (This can usually be compared to the same part on the opposite side of the vehicle for inspection purposes). If reinforcements are added stress concentrators are created and in the event of a second collision these parts will not function in the fashion they were designed. Designed (Manufacturer's) stress concentrators should not be removed. They are designed into the unibody vehicles to control and absorb collision forces, minimize structural damage and increase occupant protection. F) Full body sectioning or clipping • This unibody repair technique involves taking a good rear half of one car and joining it to a good front half of a different car (same make and model). A full body section is usually done by sectioning at the two A-pillars, two rocker panels, and the floor pan. The sectioning must always be done at factory seams. The rear section should include the roof panel and the front section should include the front floor pan. This allows the joining to occur under the rear seat at the floor, and at the windshield on the roof. It is important that the roof and the floor joints not be above each other and separated by as much span as possible. Attachments at factory seams must be made using welds in a similar fashion to the factory welding. NOTE: All salvage vehicles with full body sectioning or clipping shall have proof that such work was done by qualified auto body technicians. Such proof shall be in the form of a copy of a course certification from I-CAR, TECH COR, or other course deemed equivalent by the Department.

Looking for website that would show law about using a VIN# for a junkyard car to get insurance discount?

Q) Someone mentioned a program called Polk that checks the VIN#'s on all kinds of vehicles. I'm trying to find out if someone were to go to a junkyard and get a VIN# on a car, would they get caught? Would it be traced back that the car is in the junkyard? Anyone know about the state of Connecticut? It would be a multi-car discount without actually having to buy another car.

A) call 1-800-statepolice

Looking for website that would show law about using a VIN# for a junkyard car to get insurance discount?

Q) Someone mentioned a program called Polk that checks the VIN#'s on all kinds of vehicles. I'm trying to find out if someone were to go to a junkyard and get a VIN# on a car, would they get caught? Would it be traced back that the car is in the junkyard? Anyone know about the state of Connecticut? It would be a multi-car discount without actually having to buy another car.

A) So you are willing to commit insurance fraud - a FELONY - to get a lousy 5 % discount on your auto insurance?? Hope that 50.00 annual savings is worth the time in prison when you are caught. PS - VIN #'s are logged, and when they are scrapped, they are documented as such. They run them before issuing insurance.

What do I do about car insurance when I join the military?

Q) Do car insurance companies offer discounts on car insurance to those enlisted in the military. I'm going to be going off to the air force soon and I've decided i'm definately not taking my car. If I happen not to sell it either and just leave it at home, how do car insurance companies help with that? Do they give discounts to those away on military duty?

A) Call your company and talk to them. Several companies that I know of offer lower rates while you're deployed. But they all have different details so it pays to call around and check. I know for Geico you can drop the insurance cost a ton but you can basically only start the car a couple times a month to keep the battery charged. If you move over 20 miles or so a month you have to pay back the higher rate or loose your insurance.